LE 12V LED Strip Light, Flexible, Waterproof, SMD 2835, 300 LEDs, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Christmas and More, Warm White

Used in a pantry: hardwired and with a door switch - great! I purchased these lights to replace an old fluorescent light in my pantry that was on a light switch. I'm not an electrician or really much of a DIY'er, but for some reason wanted to do this by myself and found just enough info online to give me confidence. Our pantry has 4 L-shaped shelves. I cut the 16ft4in piece of LED lights into 9 sections, if you do the math then each is just under 22" long (one for each shelf ledge plus one to run along the top of the door). I used this transformer (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_3)...you need this to reduce the house electricity down to 12V for these LED lights or else you blow them out. To hard wire it, I cut off the plug from the transformer, separated the blue and brown wires and stripped enough to connect them to the wires from the wall where the old light was (blue to white, brown to black)...turn off power to your light obviously first in order to work with these live wires. I just used double sided tape to stick the transformer box to the wall. Then I started connecting the LED strips, starting from on top of the door to underneath the top shelf and working my way across and down (serpentine). I used these 3ft connectors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KPW2IK?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_4) to reach from one shelf to the next, plus similar 6in connectors to span the corner of each L-shaped shelf. The trickiest part was actually using a razor blade to clear off the waterproof covering on the LED strip to expose each connector on the cut end of the LED strip (on each side of the LED strip x 9 strips!)...its the only way to get them into the connectors...and they are touchy! I thought many times I had a bad connector only to try and try again to clean up the ends until I got a good connection.Now the fanciest part of this project: I used this magnetic switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KPW2IK?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_4) to wire it so the lights come on when the pantry door opens and turn off when the door shuts. To wire this, I cut the wire between the transformer box and the LED strip. I separated the red and black wires and striped them to make them ready for connecting. I just reconnected the red wires off the bat (you only need to mess with the black wire so if you can cut the cable without cutting the red wires, even better, but I don't know how you'd do that). Actually, polarity doesn't matter with this switch because its all about disrupting the circuit, so you can choose to reverse what I just said about red and black, and it still works. Either way, I had the cut ends of the black wire...the black wire coming from the transformer side got connected to the COM port of the magnetic switch, and the black wire from the LED side got connected to the NC port on the magnetic switch. This frustrated me immensely initially because my first switch was bad and I didn't know it right away...returned to Amazon, got the replacement...two days later I completed the project with a new functional switch. The wired side of the magnetic switch is mounted on the top of the door frame and the other side is mounted to the door itself....when the door opens and the two parts are then separated, the switch is activated and the lights come on.The finished product looks and works great. Lots of bright light in the pantry and the light is no longer accidently left on all day. 5 Great under cabinet lighting solution. I was remodeling my kitchen and wanted some under cabinet lighting. I don't like the bulky under cabinet lighting most hardware store sell and I knew strip lights would be the solution. I took advantage of my countertops not being installed yet to easily run the wires. I got the waterproof version of the strip lights because I was using them in a kitchen. The waterproof version is protected by a silicon coating. You will have to cut away the silicon to make the connections. You can make connections by soldering the wires to the strip light terminals or use the two included clips.I also purchased:* A power supply:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NTNGN0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03* Extra power supply connectors:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5M32Z4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00* A inline dimmer (with remote control) so I could adjust the brightness:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUGQSKM?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_8* A 12 volt dusk-to-dawn photocell so they come on automatically at night:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8O6RDW?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_10* Speaker wire to run power to both sides of my kitchen.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VCZ4V8?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_16* A Radio Shack project box to neatly contain the wires and dimmer.Pros:* Flexible and easy to install.* 3M self sticking tape, so no need for fasteners.* Bright and all LEDs work.* Dimmable (Dimmer not included)Cons:* NoneI liked the strip light so much I will be ordering again so I can do some custom interior lighting in my car. 5 Finally there is light in this dungeon! There is finally light in this bunker of a house which was previously morbidly dark. The original reason for buying these white (~6000K) lights was the emission of blue light. This light is pretty balanced (and for a warmer feeling but not too warm, mixing them with warm white strips works well together. My 96 year old Grandmother has had a nocturnal sleep schedule (which is fine for a bat or an owl, not a Human) for the longest time I can remember. Blue light inhibits melatonin which is secreted by by the pineal gland after acetylation and methylation of L-Tryptophan. Therefore, I proposed a theory to my Grandmother (which has worked remarkably well): Lights ON in the day, lights OFF at night. She has already begun to go to sleep earlier and sleep better, waking up feeling refreshed. As I write this, it's 9:17 am EST, so it's time for me to start turning on lights. We both have a remote control (by "ZAP") to activate and deactivate 5 zones at the push of a button. So, in summary, although I am not a medical doctor, my theory/hypothesis seems to have worked... Thanks to these lights. Oh, and one other thing... She (Grandmother) was afraid to turn lights on due to the electricity bill. A single 150 watt incandescent will not even nearly emit as much light as half (30w) of this strip (60w). 5 Surprisingly whiter than the non-waterproof LE warm whites I wanted to leave a description of what I received.This is my first "Warm White" waterproof strip. I will likely get installed in the next neighbor's pantry I illuminate. Until now the pantries have been getting the waterproof daylight white LE brand.The non-waterproof warm white has more yellow in it. That being said this light is more of a soft white. It casts almost no discoloration to reds. I actually like the tone. It is definitely on the yellow side of the spectrum when you set it along side the Daylight Whites. It just is not as yellow as the non-waterproof LE string.For now I will post a photo of the different LE colors I have. 5 I'm having so much fun with this that I've ordered 3 more spools I'm having so much fun with this that I've ordered 3 more spools. My first project was to put strips under the rim of a 10-gallon aquarium, and I'm very pleased with the result! I'll post a photo in the photo section. Now I'm seeing potential LED lighting strip locations everywhere I look, and planning a trip to Goodwill to collect some 12vDC adaptors. :) 5 bought these because the quotes to have these installed underneath ... bought these because the quotes to have these installed underneath my counters in my bathroom where outrageous! there are 2 sinks in my master bath, so i bought these with some connectors and a power supply. I bought a photocell trigger so these lights would turn off at day and on at night.they work as night lightsI saved around $500 doing it myself 5 Very good strips. These are some good strip lights. I install leds professionally and use all kinds of brands and this one was pretty good.+The waterproofing was put on very good, I had a lot of trouble with a razor blade removing the waterproofing to solder corners on.+The double sided tape on this strip is some of the very best I have ever had which really made my installation far easier.-The warm white wasn't as warm as I was hoping.-Not as bright as some other strips on the market but worked well for what I was doing.-There was a little bump at every location where they soldered the strips together. Fix this quality control issue and this would be a perfect product. Also, it didn't affect me or the installation in any way, I hide leds so people shouldn't be seeing this flaw anyways.I used a 12v 10A transformer and a in line RF dimmer which was rated at 12A but that can't be right because it was getting way too hot powering 6 of these 5M strips. So I added an RGB amplifier for $4 and now they both run super cool, no heat and probably a little brighter than before.Wiring the RGB amplifier: put the Positive output from the controller to the Black wire input. Jumper the R, G, B all together and add your ground from the controller to any of the R, G, or B inputs. On the output put all your positives on the Black output and your grounds on any of the R, G, or B outputs. 5 so I used a hot glue gun every few inches to secure the strip better. Instead of buying multiple lower quality power supplies .. I bought 4 of these strips because I needed about 60 ft for my deck and they worked out perfectly. The adhesive on the back is not very strong to hold the strip, so I used a hot glue gun every few inches to secure the strip better.Instead of buying multiple lower quality power supplies for these strips, I opted for a 100w weather resistant power supply from Super Bright LEDs. Important thing here is not to chain the LED strips, but run a power feed for each one, otherwise you'll notice a drop in brightness. I soldered all the connections and used liquid electrical tape to make sure no moisture gets in. While the power supply is rated for outdoors, I decided to buy a weather proof electrical box from Amazon for a more professional installation, so that everything can stay nice and dry. 4 Great for showcases and display cases My company was looking for a inexpensive solution to overpriced showcase lights. These did the trick! They are very bright and evenly light out 6 foot tall cases! Worth the investment! 5 Used for Engine Bay light system. Peeled off the adhesive tape that came on the LED strip. Some reviews says it works OK indoors, but for this application, I would recommend a much stronger tape (link below).I locally sourced an inline fuse holder (I got a style that would match the mini fuses that my vehicle uses. And installed a 5 amp fuse. Here's one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-0FHM0001XPGLO-Line-Holder-Smart/dp/B001CDMQMOI purchased some bulk white colored lamp cord from a local hardware store for my install. This is the closest I could find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Satco-White-Spt-1-number-90-1534-SAT/dp/B000V56AEY However, any sort 2 conductor wire would do. I'd recommend at least 16 to 12 gauge, but you can most likely go much thinner.The wiring process was as follows:Used the side of the LED strip that did not have the 12 volt socket on it, and cut off the length for my project.Soldered lamp cord directly to LED strip. There are videos available on YouTube for how to do this. Ideally "tin" the wires with solder before connecting them to the LED strip, this keeps the heat from the soldering iron down, and allows the wires to quickly attach to the leads. Just make sure you have the correct sides identified for Positive and Negative.Wrapped connection with self sealing silicone tape: https://www.amazon.com/Nashua-Stretch-White-Silicone-Sealing/dp/B00L2C4H4A in order to keep the elements out. Regular electrical tape, liquid electrical tape, or perhaps even hot glue should also work fine.Used some masking tape to temporarily hold the LED strip in place.Fed wire inside the hood support to keep it out of sight.Ran wire to front of hood on passenger's side.Installed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148G6EEM ) into existing hole at front of hood. I originally tried the mounting location towards the rear of the hood but the switch did not work that well. I suppose if I had spent more time on a solution, I could have gotten it to work, as further back would have been more out of the way for anyone who has to lean over the engine bay. (See update: This switch rusted out after a few months)Cut negative side of wire and used solderless female spade connector for switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148G6EEM Taped off the cut section, but didn't bother to remove the excess from the lamp cord run.Continued running the wire along the underside of the radiator support towards the fuse boxDrilled a small hole on the underside of the fuse box to allow wire to pass through.Soldered inline fuse holder to the positive wire.Connected positive wire to 12 volt line inside the fuse box.After making sure the system worked. I went back along the wire run and used the double sided tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UZCAU9O) to afix the wire in various locations, and finally get the final position of the LED strip set. You don't want the LEDs directly visible, as the glare will be distracting, so the inside edge of the hood structure is a good location.Edit July 23rd, 2019: Unfortunately, the automatic switch that I had been using rusted out to a degree that it was completely unreliable. I have decided to replace the automatic switch with this manual switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UTFIV0/ ). I believe the old switch created a problem with parasitic draw as well. 5