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Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified

  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified
  • Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified

Sunco Lighting 6 Pack of 4" inch Remodel LED Can Air Tight IC Housing LED Recessed Lighting- UL Listed and Title 24 Certified

NZ$ 450.00 NZ$ 270.00 Save: NZ$ 180.00
NZ$ 270.00 NZ$ 450.00 You save: NZ$ 180.00



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Delivery Time: 15-20 days
Delivery Time: 15-20 days

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  • Top Rated 4 Inch Remodel Can
  • ? AIR TIGHT & IC RATED - Sunco's remodel cans are airtight and thermally protected and designed to be installed in the ceiling surrounded by insulation. Sunco's cans won't overheat and cause a fire in the roof or overhead joist space. Airtight design keeps air conditioning or heating from leaking out of the home through the housing.
  • ? SIMPLE INSTALL - Follow our easy instruction guide for a fast and secure setup! Sunco's direct wire remodel cans with junction box are secured by inserting the can into the existing opening in the ceiling and pushing metal remodeling clips into the ceiling drywall or plaster to hold the can in place. TP24 connector included.
  • ? UL & TITLE 24 - We uphold the highest standards for all our products by testing each product for optimal performance and safety. Our remodel housing are compliant with Title 24 energy efficiency standards.
  • ? SUNCO BENEFITS - 10-Year Warranty! Sunco is proudly based in the USA, offering quality products at affordable prices backed by industry-leading warranties and knowledgeable support specialists.
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Customer Reviews

Relatively easy to install and works greatThese light really changed my living room. I used the 3000k warm white lights which are great and they dim well. Despite the short and unfulfilling directions, they are also easy to install, relatively. In installed them in a ceiling with attic access above. If you do not have an attic above your ceiling and dont have trusses as joists, you will have great difficulty wiring each light together.To install, I just marked the ceiling holes with a laser measure then aligned them with string. I used a stud finder and checked for ceiling joists where the lights go; I have to move two lights and inch so the can and clips would clear a ceiling joist. I then drilled the holes with a 4-1/2" hole saw. One great thing about these lights is the electric box separates from the can. So, I inserted just the cans from the living room then attached the electric boxes in the attic after I wired them up. This was helpful because I didnt have to wire them while on a ladder or in a cramped area of the attic. Wiring is easy, I stripped 1/2" off the hot and neutral and they lock right into the clip, no pig-tailing of wires needed which saves A LOT of time. My attic has blown insulation, so after I confirmed the lights worked, I dumped all the insulation back in. I installed a separate dimmer switch (type below).Some notes on installation:-The directions say to saw/cut a 4-1/2" hole but the paper outline the cans come with has a 4-3/16" diameter hole. I used a 4-1/2" hole saw but you can get away with a 4-1/4" hole saw. 4-1/2" just gives more room for the clips to attach (part of the clip needs room between the drywall and can.-HIGHLY recommend a dimmer switch, they are bright on full power. I used the following dimmer which works fine: Lutron SCL-153P-WH-DO NOT saw or cut the holes until you know there is no ceiling joist that will block the can from going in.-I have a 1950s home, the cans were installed on a 1" thick ceiling with no issues.-The electric box attached to each can has many 1/2" knockouts and one 3/4" knockout. I used the 3/4" knockout to run two wires in 5 lights, 1 wire into 1 light.5The "trick" to locking themLike many have said the clips are a challenge. In fact I went into install expecting the clips to be difficult because my ceiling is 3/4 thick. Actually once I learned the trick I was able to do the clips easily by hand no tools. I cut my holes 4 3/8, no larger. Removed the clips and removed the sealing tape from the clips. Slid the cans into place and install the clips one at a time from inside the can. Try a few before putting the can in the ceiling it isn't hard. To make the clip work easily it has to slide all the way down, if the can is touching the hole on the side where the clip is the clip will not slide down and you will have problems getting the clip to rotate into place. Pull the can away from the hole on the side you are working then push the clip out and it goes easily. A screwdriver can be used to move it the last 1/8 up into the lock position. Once installed I use aluminum AC duct tape over the clips to seal the clip area of the can.FYI;These cans are advertised as "air tight" on close inspection the wires go through a metal passage to the electrical connector box. Room air passes easily into the attic. I will use a squirt of canned insulation foam to plug that passage.The cans also advertise "thermally protected", There is NO thermal protection in the wiring on these cans.5Instructions for install. Once you know, install is a breeze.1 star off for lack of instructions. But end result is great.Here's the step by step for a smooth install.1. Determine location of lighting, insuring a minimum 1.5 inches from stud. (if closer it *can* work, but rotating housing during clip engagement will be necessary and add difficulty.2. Place sticker in location of lighting3. Cut *exactly* on the outer edge of the circular sticker with a drywall saw making sure the cut is perpendicular to the ceiling.4. Remove all clips and foam from housing, open electric box and remove long foam strip.5. Test fit the can in the hole, slowly adjusting for tight spots with utility knife.6. After can fits into hole, remove and run required wiring (note, only 2 additional wires can enter can junction box, so plan to daisy chain in series rather than use a single light to distribute to multiple cans.7. Pop out required blanks and add NM connectors for wire security.8. Place foam strip around can on outside (will fit between drywall and can for seal) do not pull tightly on foam as it will stretch and become too thin.9. Dry fit again to make sure it isn't too tight.10. Connect wires via push in connectors, insure they are fully engaged.11. Close junction box on can and place into ceiling (friction should hold if foam/hole size is cut correctly12. Remove foam tabs from metal clips.13. Place metal clips back into can as they were shipped, long tab on top.14. Long section goes through to engage back side of drywall.15. Push up on the bottom section of the tab with finger or end of flat head until the small metal tab is up in half circle of can housing.16. Repeat for all metal clips.17. Place foam tabs vertically onto metal clips previously installed to seal the openings.18. Install LED lights (sold separately)19. Enjoy4Easy to install and work greatThese are some great little housings. I installed 6 of these in a new room I'm building and paired them with some 4" TORCHSTAR adjustable LED downlights (ASIN: B00ZU21RRS). Everything went together as expected after I figured out how to get around a few snags.The instructions that come with these lights are abysmal. It's one page (front and back) with some very generic instructions that look like they cover every can type and size they make. If you buy the 6 pack, you get 6 of these unhelpful sheets. I recommend composting them.The only problem I ran into on these housings was that almost every single one was bent from the poor packaging. They stuff 6 of these fixtures into a box that is about 95% the size it needs to be. Consequently, the rims of the housings are pushed right up against the very edge of the box, causing all of them to get bent in transport. It's easy enough to straighten them out with pliers, and it shouldn't matter in the end, since that edge will be covered up by your light fixture.Having installed 6 of these with a 100% success rate, I now consider myself a recessed lighting extraordinaire. I have a modified set of instructions. Keep in mind that I have access to my attic, so the order might be skewed.1. Grab the circle sticker that comes with this housing and your drywall saw and walk them straight to the garbage. Buy the Milwaukee 49-56-0300 4" recessed light hole saw and the arbor that goes with it. This will allow you to cut perfectly sized holes that have clean edges in a fraction of the time of a drywall saw. It's worth every penny. You'll thank me later.2. Figure out where you want to drill the hole. Make sure the hole edge is at least 1" away from any stud. You can use a stud finder to determine the location.3. Drill out that hole with your new hole saw. That was easy. You might want to clear out some of the insulation around the hole if it's falling in your face right now.4. Remove all the clips from your new housing. There's a strip of sticky foam inside the electrical box. You can stick this to the outside rim of the can if you want a tighter seal, but using that hole saw, my hole was already tight.5. Slide the can, electrical box first, up into your new hole. Hold it flush to the ceiling and begin installing the clips, peeling off the sticky stuff as you go. This is the part where you'll swear to all seven of your gods that this cannot be done. Here's a hint that took my about 12 clips to figure out. Your goal is not to push the whole clip TOWARDS the can, instead, you need to push the TOP of the clip into the slot it goes into. That might mean you actually have to push in and down a bit. They go in easy once you find the right way to push them. Until you figure it out, you'll want to keep young children out of earshot. As you install each clip, you can push the foam sealing stickers flush to get that good air seal.6. Now that all of your cans are in, get up in the attic, pop one of the metal circles out of the electrical box, and run your power into the light. This should be straightforward. Black to black, white to white, and copper to green. Code in most areas requires you to use at least 12/2 Romex and then nail it down to a stud within 12" of the housing. Check your local codes to be certain. The included connector in the box lets you wire incoming power, as well as power to run to the next light on your circuit.These look and work great in my new room. I see myself installing more of these in the future.4Great housings, easy to install.Work great easy to install. The orange connector goes to your fixture, plug and play. The 3 wire connectors are easy to daisy chain your AWG.3 pieces of advice:1. use wire strippers, lost mine in the attic & found out the hard way that snips create a weak point in AWG that will break off inside connector.2. Stuck wire unscrews out, the hole in the connector is not a release.3.test your hole saw. 4.25" dia. is a little snug getting past the bend, but will go with some force. Try 4.375-4.5" depending on the thickness of your drywall.5Im an electrician and these cans are great to installIm an electrician and these cans are great to install. The clips are not held in by sticker like another post mentions. The sticker is a gasket to prevent air leak into plenum. Will order again when I replace old flourecent fixtures in my kitchen. I will also recommend these to my clients.5Buy. These. Now. Don't. Waste. $$$$$.Just do it yourself. I was quoted over $800 to install 10 of these so I decided to do it myself and let me tell you it is so easy that anybody can do it especially if there's already an existing electrical unit where you're deciding to put these. I have attached a few photos but all you really need to do is shut off the power off, uninstall the existing unit, cut the hole with the diameter the same as the sticker they provide and then you plug the wire into the unit and install your trim and light combo. I paired this with a Hyperikon 14w 4000k led downlight that I got on here on Amazon it requires a T 21 plug that is adaptable in these features, once you have your trim set up all you need to do is just flip the breaker, turn the switch on and now you have recessed lighting. A few tips when you uninstall the old unit... it is probably attached to a 2x4 so you are going to need to patch that area, also if you go to your attic and there's 3 feet of sprayed insulation just follow the wire and that will get you to where the unit was to ensure that you have room to install these 6" cans. If you are going to run a series of these like in a kitchen, take the one hot (existing light switch) wire and go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get extra 14 gauge wire in the electrical section and then splice each light from that hot wire. Just ensure that it is up to code with your local ordinance regulations because sometimes you can't do that (probably California because everything but weed is illegal/gives you cancer there). These will work with a dimmable switch and I've attached photos to show how easy this whole thing is to complete.**Update**As of 8/8/17. These lights are still running great and have lowered our electric bill by roughly $70 per month.5PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES OF PRODUCT BEFORE BUYING.PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES OF PRODUCT BEFORE BUYING.This set does not have the light bulb screw-in type. Its just the can with the wire and an adapter that didn't fit the LED Lights i bought at LOWES. I did not see this before buying, just saw a 6 pack at a good price and got it, then I realized once the can was in the ceiling. I had to remove the adapter and use a wire nut. It works ok and product is what it is, Just double check the pictures and make sure that is exactly what you need.4I love it when a product works as well as this oneI am thoroughly pleased with this set of remodel LED cans. I installed 5 in my kitchen (of which I'll take a picture after I patch up some holes where I removed some other lighting) and it took me about an hour and a half with cleanup.The lights I purchased to go in these cans are 4-Inch Hyperikon LED Downlight, ENERGY STAR, 9W (65W Equivalent), 4000K (Daylight Glow), CRI93+, Dimmable, Retrofit LED Recessed Lighting Kit Fixture, Wet Rated and UL Listed - (Pack of 4) - also super pleased with those - will be writing a review after I'm done with this one.Another tool I highly recommend in order to do the job easily, with little hassle is ProSensor 710+ Professional Stud Finder with Built-in Bubble Level and RulerA little background..- I am a DIY guy that likes to do home projects here and there - not a professional electrician or anything like that- The install was in a kitchen where I had access above via an attic- I used the stud finder mentioned above to locate the studs in the ceiling and placed my lights accordinglyThe LED cans - some notes that would have helped me a bit:- The cutouts are about 4 1/8" round. A simple drywall saw like this one Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw is all you need. Each can had a round template you could use to draw your circle. If you have a hole saw that'd be even quicker, and depending on how many you're installing, I'd probably spring for this hole saw seeing as how it's inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180066-8-Inch-Hole-Saw/dp/B00005LEZS - the cheapest one I could find at a local hardware store was $30 and I wasn't willing to spend that nor did I want to wait so I used the drywall saw and it worked just fine. Didn't take more than a couple minutes per hole to trace the outline and cut out the drywall.- The cans are water proof because they have some foam stickers on all the clips and inside the electrical housing. Peel the sticker backing off BEFORE you put these things in the ceiling! They're not so sticky that they'll immediately stick to the housing and it's MUCH easier to remove the backing when you're not reaching over your head to do so! Once you get the can up in the ceiling, you can easily slide the clips into place, then take a flat-head screwdriver and press the clips up further until they stop. Once that's done, use the foam tape to cover all the holes around the clips.- The knockouts on the cans - knowing that you'll likely be daisy-chaining all the lights together that you install, it would be well worth it to remove both knockouts on all the cans that are not the start or the end cans BEFORE you put them in the ceiling - again, it's just easier to do it while you have good access to them. Then, for the end cans, remove at least one knockout on each of those. Additionally, I recommend making a trip to your local hardware store and picking up enough of these to fill all those knockouts to keep from cutting your wire: Romex Connector - 1/2 in. - I couldn't find a good pack of them on Amazon and you can get a pack of 5 or 6 for pretty cheap at your hardware store so that may be your best bet. Go ahead and install those BEFORE you put the can in the ceiling!- The quick connectors inside the cans - I feel like they are selling themselves short by not having a good picture of the quick connect and how they work in their description - these things were fantastic. Inside the electrical box there are three wires with quick connects - a ground, hot, and neutral. All you need to do is match up those wires with your standard 14 / 2 cable, strip off about 3/4" from the cable and push it into a hole in the same quick connect - that's it! It was so easy and beautiful not having to wing nut all the wires. Loved this feature!One thing I really loved about these cans was the fact that the metal was flexible - the Romex clamps I mentioned for filling in the knockout - those have to be tightened down and likely you'll be inbetween studs in the ceiling so you can't really get a drill inbetween them. But, you can bend the metal slightly that's attached to the can so you can bring the screws down to the drill / screwdriver. Fantastic!Hopefully these tips will come in handy - these things were simple to install (directions left a bit to be desired) and this was my first time doing any recessed lighting. I would (will) buy these again - excellent quality at a good price.About the only negative thing I have to say about them is I wish the instructions were a little better for those of us doing it the first go-around.5Nice can; works well. I question the "IC" rated claim.*A word of CAUTION: This is an LED recessed can. It is advertised as an "IC" (insulation contact) rated can, BUT, I have to believe that ONLY applies if you are using the new LED recessed light "modules" (that are show on the page). Attempting to use any adapter to put a heat generating bulb in this can, if the can is surrounded by ceiling insulation, I would consider very dangerous. A true (older, conventional) recessed can that is "IC" rated has an outer heat shield that prevents excess heat from causing a fire; these cans do not.The cans did, for the most part, install easily. I would agree with others; you DO need to remove the mounting clips to slip the can up into the hole; it's just so much easier if you cut a precise hole (4 1/4" diameter). On some cans, the clips popped into place easily; on others I had to fight with the clips to click up into place. I think the metal clip would be better with a slightly more flexible metal; it's very rigid. Not a big deal; just a little bit of a pain.The wiring setup was very nice; no need for wire nuts and twisting together. It is preset with (three; black, white, ground) "clip-in" adapters that let you just push in a striped wire. There are two open spots on each clip, so you can "chain" to the next light in the series. Very nice; plug-n-play.It also has the new modular plug for connecting the led light units.4
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